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Quebec City ([wiki=4ab1c324b79a182e72e067ba8e9a510d]French[/wiki]: Québec)
[url=http://www.quebecregion.com/e/]]is the capital of the [[Canada|Canadian[/url]] province of [wiki=9f9619c660a78626f2a693ec4ceb2ee5]Quebec[/wiki]. Located at a commanding position on cliffs overlooking the St. Lawrence Seaway, Quebec City's Old Town is an [wiki=d8a9b665cf6b311b9557019e63670643]UNESCO World Heritage Site[/wiki] and the only city in North America (outside Mexico and the Caribbean) with its original city walls. Quebec is a city of about 700,000 residents.
Orienting yourself in Quebec is fairly easy. Many sights of interest are in the Old Town (Vieux-Québec), which constitutes the walled city on top of the hill. Many surrounding neighbourhoods, either in Haute-Ville ("Upper Town") or in Basse-Ville ("Lower Town"), are of great interest : Saint-Roch, Saint-Jean-Baptiste, Montcalm, Vieux-Port and Limoilou. Haute-Ville and Basse-Ville are connected by many staircases, all of which are unique, such as the aptly-named Escalier Casse-Cou ("Breakneck Stairs") and the more easily climbable "Funiculaire".
The city spreads westward from the St. Lawrence River, for the most part extending from the original old city. The true downtown core of Quebec City is located just west of the old city. Across the river from Quebec City is the town of Lévis. Frequent ferry service connects the two sides of the river.
Jean Lesage International Airport [url=http://www.aeroportdequebec.com/Html/en-ca/index.shtml].]About 20 min from downtown Quebec, it offers regular flights from cities such as [[Montreal[/url]], [wiki=948ce72be6c871b84f6d0dab24f209ed]Toronto[/wiki], [wiki=d97e023dce2bb237a0d44f46d8ee9438]New York[/wiki], [wiki=9cfa1e69f507d007a516eb3e9f5074e2]Chicago[/wiki], [wiki=1206c1cb107044f291a52d53fc9ec748]Detroit[/wiki], [wiki=aeee33366b173305b90377ed63c1084a]Ottawa[/wiki], [wiki=3064b320cef260c8f077f7c12a080f33]Philadelphia[/wiki], and [wiki=e20d37a5d7fcc4c35be6fc18a8e71bfa]Paris[/wiki] and also provides charters to remote areas of the province such as [wiki=ac629db7e69f10c7848e1672a125c694]Kuujjuaq[/wiki], [wiki=74295520c5f0c2aeafe619b959aca519]Gaspé[/wiki] and [wiki=c5cb7927103a6e81dce1cb43cb03a91f]Baie-Comeau[/wiki].
Please note that there is no public transit or hotel shuttles to the airport, except an RTC public bus 78 [url=http://www.rtcquebec.ca/DesktopModules/HoraireTrajet/Controls/PDF/GH_REG_78_20100821.pdf]Printed schedule[/url] that goes to and from the airport only a few times a day ($3.25). The taxi fare to Old Quebec from the airport is a flat fee of $34.25. If you are traveling lightly, you can walk 2 km into city's suburbs and take RTC bus route 80 or 280 to the old city (regular service several times per hour).
A passenger train station is found at the port of Quebec, 450 rue de la Gare du Palais. The Quebec VIA Rail [url=http://www.viarail.ca/]]station is a picturesque building, emulating the architectural style of the famed Chateau-Frontenac overlooking the station. The Quebec-[[Windsor (Ontario)|Windsor[/url]] corridor trains run regularly, with stopovers at [wiki=0004b45d97463070fbfd2c26207c427d]Montreal[/wiki] and [wiki=948ce72be6c871b84f6d0dab24f209ed]Toronto[/wiki].
Another train station is in Sainte-Foy, 3255 chemin de la Gare, near the Quebec and Pierre Laporte bridges. However, public transit does not run there as often as the Quebec station and this station requires walking for a couple of minutes.
The bus station, Terminus Gare du Palais located at 450 rue de la Gare du Palais, is located at the old port of Quebec, next to the train station in the same building. Intercar [url=http://www.intercar.qc.ca/]]and Orleans Express [http://www.orleansexpress.com/[/url] offer services province-wide.
Another bus station is in Sainte-Foy, 3001 chemin des Quatre-Bourgeois, which is easily accessible by city transit.
Quebec City is 2.5-3 hours by car from Montreal on either Highway 40 or Highway 20 (north and south side of the St. Lawrence, respectively). Both routes are rather monotonous drives through endless forests dotted with farms. For a slower but more picturesque tour of Quebec's heartland, drive along the Chemin du Roy (Highway 138), which follows the north bank of the river instead.
A seasonal cruise operates during the summer months between Montreal and Quebec City. The one-way trip takes approximately 7 hours and is slow-going, but the views make it worthwhile.
Walking is a great way to get around the Old Town, as the compact layout makes distances short. You will see beautiful old buildings and little vistas around every corner. You will get exercise. Do be careful of uneven cobblestones and narrow streets, though.
Côte de la Montagne is a steep, winding street that connects Upper Town and Lower Town. If you get tired, use the Funiculaire to go between the upper and lower parts of the Old Town. $2.25 per person will get you from near the base of the Breakneck Stairs (l'Escalier Casse-Cou) back up to the front of the Chateau Frontenac. It is well worth it if you have small children or large packages.
Many intersections are set up with separate traffic signals and cycles for cars and for pedestrians. At one point in the cycle, all traffic lights turn red and all pedestrian signals turn white, meaning that you can cross the intersection in any direction. Yet when the traffic light is green and the pedestrian signal is red, you may find cars turning in front of you. Some intersections have a pedestrian button to activate the signals, and you will never get a pedestrian cycle unless you push that button.
The bicycle network of Quebec City has been growing slowly but steadily for the last decade. Although small compared to the extensive utilitarian network of Montreal, it now offers a few recreational bike paths called Corridors[url=http://ville.quebec.qc.ca/citoyens/loisirs_sports/velo.aspx]]with complete bidirectional and segregated bike lanes beginning downtown and ending in the countryside, generally giving splendid views of the area on the way. Most of them are part of the Route Verte [url=http://www.routeverte.com/[/url]]system of provincial bike paths.
Corridor des Cheminots is a peaceful trail that runs from the Old Port to Val-Bélair, which continues on to the Jacques-Cartier park area. Even though it can be a challenge because of its long uphill slope, it (obviously) is a breeze on the way back.
The eastern section of Corridor du Littoral leads to [[Chutes Montmorency[/url]]. This one-hour route (2 hours both ways) runs along the St. Lawrence River, unfortunately hidden by the Dufferin Expressway. By crossing under the expressway, you can make brief stops at the [wiki=7f0920ae27ec3d6dde049ec0b2e13797]Baie de Beauport[/wiki] recreational park and the Battures de Beauport vista point for restrooms and views on the river. Keep some of your strength for the stairs up at Chutes Montmorency: the view is well worth it.
The western section of Corridor du Littoral leads to the award-winning [wiki=7365ac93cc40c017dd910bb5d2b11efa]Samuel-de-Champlain promenade[/wiki]. This time, no expressway stops you from having spectacular views on the river and you might even enjoy some nice contemporary architecture on the way. Restrooms and a cafe can be found at the end of the promenade. 1½ hour both ways.
The Parcours des Anses is in [wiki=8c89e4f8650ddf4bc5ddf748ed5f8623]Lévis[/wiki], across the river. Cross with the ferry for $3 (an experience in itself) and bike west on the south shore until you reach the Quebec Bridge and cross back on the north shore to connect with the Samuel-de-Champlain promenade and Corridor du Littoral. Crossing the Quebec Bridge is not for the faint of heart though, as it is the longest cantilever bridge in the world and the path is narrow. That said, this route is the most rewarding of all and will take you a whole afternoon to complete. Part of the route on low-traffic streets still lacks a proper bike path.
The city offers maps of its bicycle paths online[http://ville.quebec.qc.ca/citoyens/loisirs_sports/docs/velo_carte_villeqc.pdf] They are open from April to October.
Driving in the Old Town can be tricky, since the cobblestone streets were designed for narrow 17th-century horse carts rather than 21st-century SUVs. One way streets abound throughout the Old Town, and parking is difficult to find. Be aware of parking signs and ask locals to ensure parking regulation is understood. Parking patrols are effective and unforgiving.
Outside of the Old Town, the use of a car is recommended. Right turns on red are allowed unless otherwise indicated.
During the months of November through April, snow will definitely affect driving conditions. Snow tires are required by provincial law between December 15 and March 15 for all vehicles plated in Quebec as some roads will lack snow removal, sand or salting. Vehicles plated in the US or in other provinces are not subject to this requirement.
If snowfall occurred recently, watch out for red flashing parking lights. It means snow removal is underway. Cars parked on the street will be fined and towed. Parking in an underground garage is advised.
The RTC [url=http://www.stcuq.qc.ca/],]Quebec's public transportation system, is a system of buses and express shuttles that cover the whole city. Tickets cost $3.25 each, which will earn you the right to ride one direction with a transfer valid for two hours. You can get a pre-paid card loaded with up to 12 trips (in bunches of 2) from licensed stores. 1, 2 and 7 day passes (2 for 1 on weekends) and monthly passes are also sold in the same stores. Free for children below the age of 6. Drivers do not carry money and cannot change bills so do carry exact change - to buy your ticket you place the money in a cash drop box at the entry of the bus. Google Transit can be used to find the best itinerary.
Four of the bus lines are frequent-service lines called Metrobus. They are served by recognizable green and grey articulated buses. 800 and 801 both start in Ste-Foy, head toward the Old Town, and end in Beauport and Charlesbourg respectively. 802 starts at Beauport to Belvedere, through Limoilou and Saint-Sauveur. 803 runs along Lebourgneuf blvd and connects with the Galeries de la Capitale terminus. They can run as often as one every three minutes during rush hour.
The Ecolobus line stops at most of the sights and hotels of the Old Town and is only $2. A short electric bus, it connects with both the ferry and Metrobuses. It runs every 20 minutes.
The STLévis, Lévis's public transit [http://www.stlevis.ca/[/url], operates within the south shore of Quebec. There is also a shuttle from St-Augustin to Quebec. These different transit companies all pass through Quebec City, which explains the different colours of buses around town.
From Quebec to [wiki=8c89e4f8650ddf4bc5ddf748ed5f8623]Lévis[/wiki], the ferry costs $8.00 for a car (including driver) and $3.35 for pedestrians and cyclists, and takes approx 15 minutes, all year round. There are departures every 20 minutes at peak hours, 30 minutes off peak and runs between 6 AM and 2 AM. It gives the best view in town.
Quebec City icon. Claimed to be the most photographed hotel in North America. Stay the night if you can (see Sleep) and pop in for a martini if you can't (see Drink). Guided tours, once offered, have been discontinued.
* Boardwalk situated alongside (east of) the Chateau Frontenac, and offers a grand view of the St. Lawrence River.
*Beautiful building, with a nice garden around. It provides free English and French guided tours, in which one can get into the audience rooms, if they are not being used.
* Built over 200 years ago as the city's first prison, it now houses the only English library in the city. The main attraction is a visit to the jail cells, but don't overlook the library. Guided tours of the building are offered from May 16 to Labour Day weekend. Please consult our website, www.morrin.org, for tour times. During the off-season, booking one week in advance is required, as there's no guide on duty.
* Located on the Battlefields park, the mission of this art museum is to promote and preserve Québec art of all periods and to ensure a place for international art through temporary exhibitions. You can also visit the old prison of Quebec City, which is now one of the two main pavilions of the Museum. An annex designed by renowned architectural firm OMA is currently being built.
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* This fortification at the juncture of the Old City wall and Grande Allée holds a changing of the guard ceremony mornings at 10AM complete with traditional bearskin hats, weather permitting.
* Site of the 1759 battle that saw the British conquer Quebec, now used for public events, sports, and leisure activities.
* One of the tallest buildings in Quebec, offering a panoramic view of the whole city. It also has an exhibition on the history of the city, highlighting the main dates and important persons.
* Founded in 1647, the oldest see in the Americas north of Mexico. The cathedral is celebrating its 350th anniversary in 2014 and the cathedral's holy door, the only holy door outside Europe, is open through December.
Place-Royale, [http://www.mcq.org/en/cipr/index.html]. The spot where Samuel de Champlain landed in 1608 and founded the first French settlement in North America, now converted into a postcard-pretty public square. Do not miss the huge trompe-l'œil mural covering the entire side of a nearby building; the figure with a hat standing at the base of the 'street' is Champlain.
*Petit Champlain Centered on Rue du Petit Champlain and Rue Sous le Fort, this small neighborhood is considered to be one of the oldest commercial districts in North America. The narrow streets are packed with shops and cafes. It is also where you'll find the funicular and the Breakneck Stairs. Don't miss the trompe-l'œil mural covering the side of #102 Rue du Petit Champlain.
* Museum devoted to the world's peoples, with a well-done if still somewhat dull permanent exhibit on the history of Quebec.
Residence of past lieutenant-governors from 1870-1966 and spread over 24 hectares, this garden features heritage buildings, wooded areas and gardens.
Winter Carnival, city-wide, first two weeks of February and spanning 3 weekends, [url=http://www.carnaval.qc.ca/].]A truly spectacular event, the Winter Carnival is a hundred-year tradition in Quebec City. Each year, a giant ice palace is built in the Place Jacques-Cartier as the headquarters of the festivities, but there's activities all during the week. The International Ice Sculpture Competition sees teams from around the world build monumental sculptures. There are 3 parades during the event in different quarters of the city, and other winter-defying competitions including a canoe race across the St. Lawrence and a group snow bath. The festival's mascot, Bonhomme Carnaval, a sashed snowman, is the city's most famous logo. $15 (2013) will get you a rubber snowman to attach to your parka for entrance into the festivities on the Plains of Abraham.
*Saint-Jean Baptiste Celebration. Every year, June 23. Without a doubt the biggest party of the year in the entire province. Join over 200,000 Québécois of all ages on Plaine d'Abraham while they celebrate Quebec's National Day throughout the night. Various Québécois musical performances, bonfire, fireworks, and a lot of drinking.
*Festival d'été, [url=http://www.infofestival.com/[/url].]Beginning to mid-July, a lot of cheap music shows (you buy a button for $45 and it gives you access to all the shows, for the 11 days of the festival) in and around the Old Town, with international and local artists (for example in 2004, The Nits, Wyclef Jean, Bérurier Noir in 2010, Iron maiden, The Black Eyed Peas, Santana, Rush, Arcade and Rammstein).
*Edwin-Bélanger Bandstand, [url=http://www.ccbn-nbc.gc.ca/_en/edwinbelanger[/url].]A musical experience in the open. Jazz, blues, Worlbeat. June to August. Thursday to Sunday.
*Festival of New France, first weekend in August, [http://www.nouvellefrance.qc.ca[/url].
*Quebec City International Festival of Military Bands [http://www.fimmq.com/site/home.html]: Spectacular performances are offered by Military Bands from all around the world. The Festival takes place at the end of August.
Specializes in Quebecois cooking, including dishes that feature caribou, buffalo, or wapiti. The table d'hote (the local term for prix-fixe), served until 17h45, is quite a good deal at $19.95. Reservations recommended.
* Inexpensive crepes, starting at about $5. Usually a long line to enter, due to the fact that the restaurant is rather small. Come early.
* Good selection of Viennese pastries and gelato. Locals line up to buy inexpensive soups, sandwiches, and pizza.
* Known for upscale burgers and poutine, they also offer a variety of homemade sodas, shakes, and ice cream sandwiches. Indoor and outdoor seating available, large-screen television in each dining room.
* Warm, cozy environment. Fantastic food--shrimp scampi that melts in your mouth, filet mignon cooked at table side, and other delectable dishes. Expensive but well worth it.
* Wonderful atmosphere, friendly staff. Serves delicious breakfast for $6.25 starting at 8AM.
* Expensive. The environment is a mish-mash of styles that do not seem to work together. The wait staff is friendly and knowledgeable. The French food is well-prepared but probably the most expensive restaurant in Quebec City and you should be aware of this fact. On the other hand, this restaurant is a must for stars visiting Quebec City, Paul McCartney had dinner at the St-Amour in 2008 the night before his concert.
* Filled with more locals than tourists, this small eatery serves up a good selection of European dishes including their trademark moules (mussels).
* Outside the purlieu of the mechanized tourist cafeterias of the Old Town, this warm restaurant produces high-quality food and drink in small, manageable doses. They have a short but provocative nightly menu, and the food is produced by hand with the loving attention of chefs who care about their craft. Great cellar of organic wines that will surprise you with their depth.
* Pizzas baked in a wood-fired oven. Expensive and small portions. Surcharge of $3.25 per pizza to cut them into two. 10% service charge added to the bill.
* Good Japanese food in a small comfortable setting. Midi-Express (lunch) starting at $9.95 is a good deal and includes soup or salad, main course, and coffee or dessert. NOW CLOSED :(
* Located at the top of the Concorde Hotel this revolving restaurant offers unrivalled 360° views over the city and French sytle cuisine. Also known for its Sunday brunch.
Touristy, but in a good way - the "Crazy Pig" is cavernous but usually packed, with hefty portions from a frequently-changing menu. Lunch specials are good value at $10-15, including starter and coffee.
La Planque is a bit off the beaten path, though really only about a 15 minute walk from the Gare du Palais. I cannot emphasize enough how well-worth the walk this place is. It's very similar to some of the casual-avant garde places in Montreal (i.e. A Pied de Cochon). The menu is fantastic, as is the wine list (though it's all in French). The food is a bit of a mix of nouveau-French and new-American, with a healthy balance of sea food and meat. The wait staff was extremely nice, very helpful, and very willing to assist in choosing a dish (even for those of us with less-than-passable French). Reservations recommended. Map: https://goo.gl/maps/4fnvk
Charming and warm hostel/B&B run by a very nice older Qubecois woman named Chantal. Spacious, clean rooms. Shared bathrooms. Located in Levis, Quebec which is a nice ~10 minute ferry ride from the old city ($2, runs until 2:30am) . Great option if arriving in Quebec by car is to park on the Levis side for free and then take the ferry right to the old town.
* Student and family friendly hostel. Offers many types of bedrooms/suites. Some rooms offer ceiling fans while others do not, so ask first. Huge kitchen and dining area with cookware and utensils for common use. Offers laundry, game/pool room, Internet (including free WiFi), lockers and other services including a cafe which offers breakfasts for $6 (or free with private and four bed dorms). On the northwestern edge of Haute-Ville. Online bookings offered.
* 60 beds. Breakfast, kitchen included. Very clean.
* Linen & cookware not included; kitchen, TV, etc. Reservation form on the web site. Lowest price in town for long stays.
* Free breakfast and free parking. Friendly and clean. 44 rooms.
Squeaky-clean small hotel in a new building built to look like an old one. Rooms are small, but equipped with en-suite bathrooms, and a tasty breakfast made to order is included. Note that children are not allowed. Rooms from $89/119 low/high season.
* Family-owned carbon neutral hotel. They have been awarded 5 Green Keys from the Hotel Association of Canada’s Green Leaf Eco-Rating Program.
* Old Port inn.
* A small hotel in the old town.
* A nice hotel at the base of Mont-Sainte-Anne.
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* A bit far from the city itself (15 minutes by car) but offers more than lodging with a health centre (spa & massages) and a 4-diamond restaurant, le Laké.
* Close to the Citadel. Free wireless internet. Tea, coffee, and muffins included.
* Friendly, bilingual staff in an 1835-vintage building. In the Old City, near the National Assembly building. High-speed wireless internet. Breakfast included; served 8AM-10:30AM.
* Wine machine on premises. Free wireless Internet.
One of Canadian Pacific Railway's [wiki=ce9d90c98437bf7e38f1644d5dd43d74#Canada]grand old hotels[/wiki], this castle-like building dominates the Quebec skyline and claims, with some justification, to be the most photographed hotel in North America. The location right next to the funicular connecting Haute-Ville and Basse-Ville is as convenient as it gets, but expect tour groups marching through the lobby at five-minute intervals.
* Short term and long term rentals. Condos, apartments or houses.
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